The other day I was lucky enough to meet Laird Hamilton
because my aunt and uncle live down the street from him. The impression I got
from him is that he is really intense. The only way you can charge waves that
big, is if you are intense. Laird basically pioneered big wave tow surfing and
holds an insane amount of respect in the surf community. It is always cool to
meet someone who helped pioneer the sport of surfing in some way.
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